Tubogas is one of Bulgari’s most iconic techniques, an emblem of innovation and craftsmanship in the world of jewellery. Its history is long and interesting, it has its roots in the first decades of the twentieth century and has had its peak between the 1940s and 1970s. The tubogas technique stands out for its distinctive style and complex construction, combining functionality and elegance. The term “tubogas” derives from the similarity to the metal tubes used for the transport of gas in the 1920s and 1930s. The technique was taken up in jewelry precisely because of its fluid and modern aesthetics, characterized by narrow and flexible meshes, wrapped in spiral, without the need for welding.
This structure allows you to create pieces that perfectly adapt to the shape of the body, giving the jewel an elastic and enveloping effect. Bulgari adopted tubogas in the 1940s, inspired by industrial design and adapted it to its jewelry. Over the years, this technique became synonymous with elegance and modernity, a perfect example of modern style in the world of jewelry. It was an innovative choice that allowed the brand to stand out, as it required an advanced processing technique and a lot of craftsmanship. In the 1970s and 1980s, tubogas became a distinctive signature of Bulgari. During this period, Bulgari created some of its most famous pieces, such as bracelets and watches with Serpenti case. The Serpenti collection is one of the best known examples of the application of tubogas, thanks to its ability to wrap around the wrist or neck. This type of jewelry and watches is now an icon, beloved for its bold design and flexibility, which blends practicality and refinement. The evolution of tubogas today Bulgari continues to use tubogas in many of its collections, keeping alive a tradition that has more than half a century. While retaining its classic and recognizable design, the brand has revisited tubogas in contemporary versions, integrating new materials and modern details to satisfy the tastes of an increasingly global and diversified clientele. The tubogas of Bulgari represents a combination of tradition and innovation, timeless design that continues to inspire new generations and celebrate the excellence of Made in Italy.
To understand what Tubogas has represented in Bulgarian history, you have to go back in the 1940s. In the 1940s, the House began to use this technique to create the soft and enveloping bracelets-watch of its Serpenti line. Tubogas wristwatch bracelet in gold, 1949, Private Collection. Tubogas has shown from the beginning its versatile and contemporary soul. But it was only in the 1970s that this style of industrial inspiration – whose name comes from gas pipes – became emblem of Bulgari’s modern spirit. Tubogas watch-bracelet flared gold, approx. 1972. In those years, Tubogas jewelry brought the concept of glamour to everyday life. It responded to the needs of a new generation of women asking for jewelry to be worn from day to night. The introduction of steel in combination with yellow gold has made these creations more accessible. It combined a casual chic style with a contrast of impact colors. In addition, a long research process has selected a sufficiently malleable, stainless steel type and suitable for melting. Bracelet ubogas in steel and gold with citrine, peridote and green tourmaline, 1988. Bulgari’s research for distinctive colour effects has also led to the creation of alternations between yellow, pink and white gold straps and multicolored bracelets. Among them, there are some truly unique designs, including the overlap of four or five different bands. Bulgari Tubogas: Capsule Collection 2022 Today Bulgari brings the timeless charm of Tubogas back to the forefront with new jewelry creations. These new jewelry combine the iconic tubular structure with cabochon cut gems, one of the signatures of the Roman jeweler. Bulgari Tubogas Capsule Collection 2022 Bulgari Tubogas Capsule Collection 2022 The protagonist of the collection is a 18kt rose gold necklace. It is animated by the colourful vivacity of five cabochon cut colored stones: amethyst, citrin quartz, peridote, rubellite and blue topaz. Each gem is framed by a sparkling pavé of diamonds, which enhances its unique and exciting nuances. Each gem presents the extraordinary cabochon cut – another stylistic figure of the Roman jeweler – characterized by smooth and voluminous contours. Bulgari Tubogas Capsule Collection 2022 Bulgari Tubogas Capsule Collection 2022 – Necklace To achieve the iconic flexibility and elasticity of Tubogas, the central body requires many hours of specialized work by a Bulgarian craftsman who wraps two long gold bands around a core in wood or copper, subsequently removed, seamless. Completed by cloison coulissant, a closure system that allows it to adapt perfectly to the neck, the necklace expresses its versatile spirit through every detail. The capsules also include three rose gold bracelets, to match the necklace or mixed and matched as desired, and available in different colours: one with cabochon cut fantasy rubellite and the other two, exclusive of the area of Greater China, with blue topaz and a fantasy amethyst cut cabochon, all enclosed in a sparkling frame of pavé diamonds. Bulgari Tubogas Capsule Collection 2022 Bulgari Tubogas Capsule Collection 2022 – Bracelet. Much more than just goldsmith technique, Tubogas is a distinctive sign of Bulgarian style, which has demonstrated its ability to merge in ever new ways with the other aesthetic codes of the Roman Maison. Its eternal charm continues to resist the test of time, and this is just the beginning.
The symbolism of the snake It is difficult to escape from the charm of the snake, which has the power to enchant even that he is afraid of it. As documented, this reptile was already venerated in ancient Egypt, and its aura remained unaltered until the present day. Without a doubt part of the attractiveness of the snake is due to its ambivalence. Its poison can kill, so it can be a symbol of destruction. The figure of the snake has a negative connotation especially in Judaism and Christianity because of the history of expulsion from paradise, and yet it is impossible not to notice the strength of this animal. The wetsuit allows him to constantly renew himself, which is why it is also a symbol of rebirth, rejuvenation and vital energy. Bulgari was inspired by the shape of the snake because of its aesthetics, or at least that is what the brand says. Can we believe it? A rather unusual choice for an Italian fashion house! Already in ancient Rome, snake-shaped bracelets were worn, which was the symbol of Esculapio and promised healing. Is there a link between this symbolism and the historical period in which this model debuted? The war had destroyed Europe and shaken society that desired a new beginning, a rebirth and therefore everything that represents the snake. It is therefore likely that this has unconsciously influenced Bulgari’s choice
Here we have some models evolution during the years
Year 1949 – Clod